Took it apart and sure enough the hinge (both sides this time) on the modulation bar had broken. Installed a spare and I’m good to go again, for now at least. I’m down to only one spare though so maybe I need to start thinking about ordering some more.
Posts Tagged ‘AX09’
Playing the keytar at an open mic on Wednesday I notice the modulation bar was feeling a bit ‘strange’. Sure enough it fees llike one of the plastic hinges has broken so it’s time to take it apart and replace YET ANOTHER MOD BAR! Good job I order a few spares the last time as it takes them a few weeks to get here.
No, this is not some sort of new kinky perversion!
I finally got around to installing a set of Schaller strap locks onto my Lucina ‘keytar’. I had to take a file to the part that fits into the plastic housing on the Lucina because it was ever so slightly too big, but once that was done they bolted up just fine in place of the original strap buttons. And speaking of ‘bolting’, the strap buttons on the Lucina are bolted to the plastic body and there’s a nut on the inside on each bolt and of course that nut is NOT captive. What that means to you is that you have to take your Lucina apart to put the new buttons on, which you have to do because the strap locks won’t fit onto the existing buttons which are of course too big. There’s a post elsewhere on this blog about pulling your Lucina apart so I won’t repeat it here, just hit the ‘Lucina’ tag over there in the tag list!
UPS delivered the part I need for the synth this afternoon so thirty minutes with a screwdriver and the synth is as good as new.
Thanks to Roland for stepping up and helping me to resolve this.
Due here Friday (night if I know the UPS guys around here!) so with luck I should be good to go soon after that which is great because we have a gig on Saturday.
Wonder if I can learn Black Magic Woman by then, got it with the music in front of me and it sounds pretty sweet on the Lucina now that I’ve got a handle on using the pitch bend properly.
Received an email today from their customer support manager letting me know that they had pulled the part from another unit and are shipping it to me.
I certainly appreciate them making the effort for me and I have to say thank you for their efforts. Hopefully the part will arrive quickly and I can get my Lucina back up to spec. I shall however take special care from now on NOT to drop the dang thing!
So I contacted Roland customer support to see what my options are regarding getting the Lucina fixed.
It was NOT a good experience although I cannot really blame the guy on the other end of the phone.
Basically they won’t cover it under warranty even though it’s in the 90 day limit and in my opinion the problem was caused by a manufacturing (design) defect as it occurred after the strap came off, something that should not have happened in my opinion. Seems I could ‘argue’ my case but I want this thing fixed this year so I did not bother as that was going to take to long. I’ll argue that later.
So that leaves take it to a repair center (and pay for the repair) or ship it to them (pay for repair and shipping!) or order the part and fix it myself. So I figured get the part and fix it myself. Part is $4.60 BUT they don’t have it. It’ll be 4-6 weeks. That’s just bloody pathetic! I don’t care who you are you should have some spares available when you start to sell a new product.
So anyway I ordered the part. The total cost was $10.60 because they have the bloody cheek to charge me $6 for shipping as well.
I used to like Roland, not so much lately!
So I took it apart again this morning, hoping that it would be an easy fix but sadly it is not.
When I looked closer, the two ‘posts’ that I thought the mod bar should screw into are actually part of the mod bar. The bar itself ‘should’ be attached to the posts via what is in effect a thin plastic hinge. That fall has completely separated the bar from the mounting posts.
This is what it should look like with the bar attached to the mounting posts (I’ve just pushed it into position for this pic, it’s still really broken):
And this is what it looks like now:
While this sucks it is at least still under their 90 day warranty so as soon as they open up shop on the west coast I am on the phone so that I can find out how I can get this repaired. Bad part is that we’ve got gigs coming up soon that I will not be able to play at unless I take my regular keyboard and the whole point of the Lucina was NOT to have to lug all that gear around, plus it looks a lot cooler (to me at least!).
Not in a happy place right now…
OK, I think I have now figured out what is wrong with the modulation bar. When I had it apart I noticed two screws in it. I thought they were acting as pivots for the bar as there were two corresponding round pieces on the circuit board beneath it. Anyway I was jamming tonight and the bar was annoying the crap out of me and it occurred to me that those two screws probably screwed into the two little pillars below the screws. I thought those pillars were part of the sensor or something but I think what I can see inside of them is the end of the broken of screws. When the Lucina hit the floor the shock must have broken both of those screws which is why the handle moves so much now.
So I’ll have to take it apart, remove the screws from the handle, drill out the end from the pillar thing that they screws go into and see if I can find replacement screws to fit. The screws looked like plastic so I should be able to drill through them then use a fine pick to dig the threaded pars out, or I might see if I’ve got a small EZout in the garage that I can use.
I think that once I replace those two screws it will be OK.
Well that bar is still a bit ‘wobbly’ although at least the spring return works now. The whole thing just seems ‘loose’. I took it all apart again but could not see any real reason why it would be like that. Maybe it was always that way and I never noticed. I really need to try one at the shop to see if there is a difference.
Oh, and you cannot take this puppy apart too often. These screws in the back are self tappers into the plastic posts in the other clam-shell half. Once you’ve taken then out and put them back in a few times I can see that they would not grip any more. Then you’d need to use slightly larger screws.
So be careful when putting the screws back in, don’t over tighten them less you strip the plastic in the hole that they go into.
The first question of course is why am I repairing an almost brand new instrument? Well, I was at a jam last week and I was getting ready to play so I picked it up by the strap like I always do. However this time the strap (the stock Roland one that came with it) came off one of the buttons allowing that end of the unit to fall. As it did so it of course, rotated the other button out of it’s strap slot allowing the whole unit to fall onto the floor.
Fortunately there did not seem to be any damage other than a very slight crack to one edge of the clam-shell case of the unit. At least it seemed to play ok and indeed has continued to do so since then.
I did notice however that the tremolo bar, that’s the one that you squeeze, not the touch bar, just did not feel right after that. It still worked but it seemed ‘loose’ is the only way I can describe it. So finally I decided to heck with it, lets take it apart and have a look.
So the first task is to separate the two clam-shell halves. To do this you need to remove all the LARGER screws from the rear of the case. There are 14 around the edge and five along a recess in the center below the keyboard itself. You do NOT need to remove the smaller screws at all.
Once all the screws are out you can separate the two parts quite easily but be gentle, there are cable connecting the top and bottom parts together on the left side (where the grip is) and they are not very long. I quickly decided that I could not really even see inside there without fully separating the two halves so I disconnected the cables.
Three are connected with clips that go into sockets on the circuit boards fastened to the top part of the clam-shell whilst one is a ribbon cable that simply slides into a connector. To disconnect the clipped cables just pull gently on the top or sides of the clip. Do NOT pull on the wires that go into the clip, use a finger nail or small screwdriver if you cannot grip the clip to help remove them. They are not too tight. For the ribbon cable, securely grip the cable near the bottom which is reinforced and just pull it out of the socket on the circuit board. With the cabled disconnected you can separate the two halves of the clam-shell.
The touch pad and vibrato bar are mounted on a sub unit circuit board fastened to the top part of the clam-shell. The board is fastened to the clam-shell by four screws, one in each corner (yellow circles in the picture below). There are two other screws (red circles) that fasten the touch pad to the circuit board. I also removed these although I now know that I didn’t have too.
There’s also a plug (black circle) that connects to the circuit board that I disconnected. With all that done I could remove the sub assembly.
Once I had the sub assembly out it became clear what was wrong with the the tremolo bar. In the center of the sub assembly in the picture above there is a small spring that is circled (light yellow). This is the return spring for the vibrato bar. It hooks onto a couple of small clips, one end onto that metal piece above the assembly and one end onto a small plastic projection on the vibrato bar. The fall onto the floor must have dislodged the spring so the bar did not return at all when released and just rattled loosely instead. Two sec0nds to reattach the spring and all was well.
Put it all back together and it’s as good as ever and the vibrato bar does feel a lot better too now.
As for the straps, I got a couple of Dunlop Ergo Guitar locks. A cheap and quick fix to the strap problem.
By the way, if you want to replace the strap buttons with some sort of ‘real’ locking guitar strap system then be aware that the strap buttons are BOLTED to the metal frame inside the lower clam-shell case half. This means that to change them you will still need to separate the clam-shell halves and the cables as you cannot really work with the cables still connected, they are just not long enough to get enough separation of the case halves.